Tuesday, July 22, 2008

bigger, better, faster, more

this weekend i had tapas and arepas. i love having the basic national foods of countries. so uncomplicated and reflective of the lands from which they come. tapas and arepas have a very long and simple history with their respective cultures that make them classic in a humble and basic way which many describe as "peasant food", and timeless in a way that epicures appreciate. i have wanted to eat at "caracas" arepa bar on the lower east side for a while now, and the wait was well worth it. it is a minuscule restaurant full of the decorative flavor and soul of a south american country who's indigenous people knew how to, not just survive on the bounty of nature, but do justice to that bounty by creating highly flavorful and nourishing fare reflective of their energy and appreciation of life. religious and superstitious, statues of saints and artifacts are evidence of the spirit of the place and the people. it was fantastic. tostones mochimeros, a chicken and chorizo arepa "la surena", and tinto de veranos. complex, flavorful, soulfully nuanced and satisfying. xunta is a tapas bar, also on the lower east side, which i have visited before and to which i wanted to introduce my new friends, magna and jameela (and shout out to their friends ruthie and maritza). we had white sangria, lulas anel y patatas bravas. while the origin of tapas is not strictly certain, and the variety of them is as different as the locale from which they emerge, they surely are as satisfying and fulfilling as the libations and camaraderie which they innevitably accompany. as religious and superstitious as the venezuelans, the spaniards have an equally visceral (no pun intended) connection to their food. the bounty of the land, simple yet complex, a cornucopia both easy and satisfying. tapas, and arepas, have of late become a "fad" in the united states. initial attraction of a fashion is sudden and exciting, but seldom truly "gratifying" and "nourishing". their long-lasting appeal, however, comes from their soul. many things will come and go, the new car, smartphone, lover, jeans. but on further inspection, few things pass the tests of time, foods may have "nouvelle" incarnations, the nuances of the generations; but the heart of a cuisine is evident in its "comida criolla". check out the links to both of these places and then check them out. come to appreciate the people and the harvest, the hearty and the heart-felt. get in touch with and satisfy your basic needs. come to the table to un-hitch, dress down, sit with the one that speaks to your heart, and connect with something that lasts.

No comments: